- √ Move weigela bush
- Move some dill down to the meadow
- √ Move south garden arch
- Move honeysuckle to south garden entrance
- Move hibiscus to irrigated bed
- Trim chokecherry along north fence
- Davey Tree trim apples
- Edge rock wall
- Put fabric over meadow
- Plant all the meadow grasses/flowers
- Bottle water for vine planters
- Put up black dragonfly screen on fence
- Front walk bed redo
- Build screen for garbage cans
- iNaturalist – determine if the yellow flower could be one of the following
A garden on the move
A garden is never static. Trees grow and block light. A bed becomes over-crowded. Perennials need divided.
I have moved a number of plants already this year. But especially in need was the Weigela florida ‘Minor Black’ . What should be gorgeous glossy dark green leaves, appeared a dullish brown in its partially shaded spot. Although its supposed to grow up to 6 feet, it never got more than two in a season. I moved it in front of the rock wall where it might show off its leaves in front of the chartreuse Gold Flame spirea. Moving plants is pretty easy.
a. dampen soil
b. use sharp shovel
c. keep a root ball
d. dig new hole wider than ball
e. make sure plant is above grade
f. tamp down and water in
When you decide you want to move a plant, wet down the soil around the plant. Let it settle for an hour or two so you don’t over compact the soil digging when overly wet.
With the shovel at a slight angle inward, start the dig line at the edge of the plant’s growth. Dig all the way around the plant. If you notice that the there is still resistance at the base of the dig line, go around the plant again digging deeper. You can then start to angle in below the plant and gently lift as you go around. You may hear some popping as larger roots break. If you are moving a tree or bush with a main trunk, don’t be tempted to pull it out by the trunk until you have fully detached all roots. A tree can be killed if main feeder roots are damaged.
Dig the new hole a little wider than the root ball you dug out. Do not amend soil in the hole. This discourages the roots from growing out into the surrounding soil. If you have poor soil, you can top dress once you’ve planted. when placing the plant be sure the main stems/trunk sits slightly higher than the surrounding soil… this will ensure water doesn’t run into the trunk and create rot. After backfilling, lightly tamp down and water in. Keep soil moist for the first growing season to ensure transplant takes.
Moving a scene
In the pollinator’s garden, an arch has been on my list for a couple years now. You can see below where I put it between two posts that housed the original gate. The problem? It frames a view of the side of the shed… hmmm.
If I moved it closer to the house, the view takes you into the garden. Now there is the matter of moving the path, bench, and plants. Plants will be done after bloom.
Other plant moves included monarda to the back fence bed. Day lillies to the raised patio bed. Crocus to a sunnier spot. My long lived, temporary shasta daisies have been divided and have a new home at a friends.
Edges make a difference
With my quest for all that is wild, my garden could easily become a jungle. But untidy is only beautiful in mother nature’s garden. Keeping a neat appearance can be as simple (or tedious) as ensuring edges are clean. I have a number of edges that define my wilder spaces. The gray pavers were fully overgrown with grass. At one point I had filled the area between rock wall and paver with pea gravel. While it looked nice, it made using a power string edger a hazard. Part of the work will be to find filler that won’t break a window if kicked out by the edger.
Obviously this needs more work – but the start is good.